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Author Topic: Murena Engine Rebuild  (Read 10929 times)
RazorbackNOR
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« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2011, 04:46:43 pm »

 Shocked Shocked

Oetker! What are you trying to do??

Make all uf us here whimper and cry in pain.....?

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2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
Oetker
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« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2011, 05:18:03 pm »

A member forgot to check oil, and wanted us to hear a ticking noise for judgement after that.
The engine just died recording it, but I think it was more or less dead already.
The point was the swinging engine and mount.
I still hope to find one with a softer compound then the latest batch.
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
GP
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« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2011, 05:55:13 pm »

The engine mount and bush assembly came from Garage Simon already assembled. This has the Matra Part number 327139 cast on it, which is the same as the one that came off. I am pretty sure it is not a an aftermarket pattern part. What indicates to you it may be?

Oh jeez I have just watched the video. Unbelievable and very disturbing to say the least! Was he trying to destroy it on purpose or did he really forget to check and put oil in ? I definitely have oil in mine as I just filled it without fitting the oil level switch. Must go now and clean up the floor! Cry

It does look like he may not have a top engine mount fitted there is so much movement. I did replace these 2 x bushes about 10 years ago, but I think I will go and have a much closer  look.

Thanks for the reponse Oetker, much appreciated.

GP
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 07:41:21 pm by GP » Logged
Oetker
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« Reply #18 on: April 22, 2011, 07:48:41 pm »

Some people really don't know about engines and the wrong sounds.
It was not on purpose, it happened, caught by camera.

Th original engine-mount look likes this.


The latest batch looks like this.


You van recognize it by the angeled rubber at the edges.
They are much stiffer then the originals, introducing engine-vibrations in the car especialy in idle speed.
If I can find it I would change it back for a softer one no matter lifespan is shorter.

Notice, the way the new rubber is mounted is wrong.
It introduced a rumble in the car.
It has to be mounted like the upper foto.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 07:53:49 pm by Oetker » Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #19 on: April 24, 2011, 02:21:00 pm »

A member forgot to check oil, and wanted us to hear a ticking noise for judgement after that.
The engine just died recording it, but I think it was more or less dead already.
The point was the swinging engine and mount.
I still hope to find one with a softer compound then the latest batch.
One thing that is painfully obvious from that video is, that he did not have the top engine mount attaching the head to the rear wall in the engine compartment.  Shocked
If he had that mount, there is no way the engine would move that much. Probably he has a Tagora head, whiich does not have the fitting to install that mount. Philbert is struggling with that same problem. A jury-rigged mount on his Tagora head, keeps ripping the bolt out of the head. Sad
« Last Edit: April 27, 2011, 08:19:35 am by Jon Weywadt » Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
Oetker
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« Reply #20 on: April 24, 2011, 03:26:49 pm »

There is only one good solution using the Tagora head, and that is to weld new supports on the head like in the picture.

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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
GP
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« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2011, 06:33:46 pm »

Fitted all the S.S. Coolant Pipes with new hoses and S.S. slanger klammers. The cooling system was filled with the thermostat out and with the assistance of an L.P. air line jammed in the top of the expansion bottle neck, the system was bled nicely with a fine jet of water coming out of the thermostat hose bleed nipple after a few fill ups. No leaks observed and the oil level checked ready for lift off shortly.

GP

NB: Plenty of lovely room to play in with the 20 litre tank tucked out of the way. (Last picture)
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GP
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« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2011, 12:43:39 am »

The engine fired up last week instantly with the static engine timing set to 10 degs. No leaks of oil or water visible so far and huge oil pressure.
The engine did seem to shake around a bit and obviously the new engine mounts are a concern. I put a strobe light on to check the igniton and retarded it to 12 deg. BTDC and things settled down nicely. I have been advised by Roy that 14 deg. may suit my particular set up even better. I do have the vacuum advance disconnected and the inlet manifold blanked off accordingly.
Once I have run it, re-torqued the cylinder head and re-adjusted the tappets I will take it to a Rolling Road and try this out with a few Power/Torque runs to confirm it. I must say it is pulling like a train now (Sorry Officer) and hopefully it will not let itself down at "La Vie en Blue 2011" (Sunday) or Crystal Palace 2011 (Monday). Both of which I have entered and would love to see any Matra enthusiast out there attend.

http://www.prescott-hillclimb.com/events/may2011.aspx

http://www.motorsportatthepalace.co.uk/

GP


« Last Edit: May 06, 2011, 11:30:00 am by GP » Logged
Oetker
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« Reply #23 on: May 06, 2011, 12:59:13 am »

Nice to see you have it up and running again.
Must be OK now for the next 150.000 miles to come Grin
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I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
GP
Guest
« Reply #24 on: July 17, 2011, 02:13:32 pm »

Nice to see you have it up and running again.
Must be OK now for the next 150.000 miles to come Grin

That would be very nice indeed. Attached is the latest power/torque curve from the final setting up session on a rolling road. having run the engine in now. Down a tiny bit in power at 153bhp as I used to have 156bhp. Torque the same at 136.8lbft. The only difference being that I have removed the exhaust wrap now from the manifold.

GP
« Last Edit: July 17, 2011, 02:19:31 pm by GP » Logged
krede
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« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2011, 03:25:50 pm »

What is your take on the exhaust wrap GP?
I have wanted to apply some to my car for some time, as the four branch stainless manifold on my car produce a LOT of heat!.  So far I have not done so from fear of heat soak damage to the cylinder head, and the possible fire hazard from oil drips and spills onto the wrap.
From what I have learned, damage to the manifold is mostly an issue with cast or welded iron, where stainless steel should hold up much better.
But what about the cylinder head?   
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GP
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« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2011, 04:01:07 pm »

In my opinion I am in favour of using it especially in a mid-engined car with the engine in a confined space.
My take is that it reduces the engine bay heat and the cooler air helps with more oxygen for more power. I have read that velocities of exhaust gases increases and improves scavening of burnt gases, which then improves the whole combustion process. Not that I can confirm or reject this theory.
It can cause hot spots on cast iron manifolds which may cause failures, but I have only used it on my 4-branch S/S manifold. Coat it afterwards if required with a heat paint (mine did) and oil and grease didn't appear to bother my installation. It does become brittle with time though and mine only became damaged as I had removed the manifold and bounced it about on the deck a few times.
I do not think heat soak into the head or fire hazard are anything to worry about.
I did not fit heat wrap this time (which I have purchased) as it is a very time consuming process as you should really try and keep all the lengths continous. I would take a few evenings over the installation myself as it is a bit tedious.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Car_Preparation/Heat_Shielding_Protection/Design_Engineering_Titanium_Exhaust_Wrap/1471/6261

Something to consider is possibly ceramic coating although this may be rather expensive, but I have no experience of this.

http://www.zircotec.com/page/exhaust_system_coatings/60



« Last Edit: July 17, 2011, 04:07:53 pm by GP » Logged
krede
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« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2011, 04:14:19 pm »

Thanks GP... that pretty much doest it for me... I'm gonna give it a go Smiley
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GP
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« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2011, 11:41:11 pm »

Thanks GP... that pretty much doest it for me... I'm gonna give it a go Smiley

Your welcome Krede. Good decision.

NB: Having seen that ceramic coating company site for the first time today I have sent a request to them out of interest, for a price to ceramic coat the S/S manifold in white? Keep you posted.

GP
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darrenheli
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« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2011, 11:48:46 pm »

Also Try

http://www.camcoat.u-net.com/  both will last forever
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