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Author Topic: I'm leaking! Water expansion tank in the engine bay for Murena 2.2  (Read 71155 times)
GP
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Posts: 296



« Reply #105 on: June 30, 2021, 09:59:12 pm »

Hello Jesper,

No never got round to fitting it. Played with it though by plugging it into the (unused on mine) offside rear brake pad wear sensor wire (as suggested by Roy) and earthing the other to the chassis. Had great fun though moving the float arm up and down making the warning light go on and off on the dashboard, so it should work a treat if the water level does drop.

Cheers,

Graham



« Last Edit: July 01, 2021, 09:14:33 am by GP » Logged
tonyz59
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Posts: 37


« Reply #106 on: July 01, 2021, 10:35:19 am »

Just jumping in on this if you don't mind. I have an alloy tank and i fitted the float level switch from car builder solutions, and connected up as per Roy's instructions to the brake circuit. It works perfectly and helped with the filling of the cooling system. It took around a week of constant topping up the coolant to finally let the all the air out and keep the warning light off.
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roy4matra
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« Reply #107 on: July 02, 2021, 11:18:08 am »


Oops, I already emailed Brise on Sunday saying I could find an original to use as a pattern. Luckily they have not answered yet!

The original S sets the carburettors higher and the left one (Cyl 1 & 2) is moved closer to the other one. It also moves the thermostat housing further back and to the right.

Now I need to find one...

Cheers,
JL.


Anyone wanting a replica of the Prep 142/S inlet manifold has no need to try. Smiley

I already have a few new inlet manifolds for two twin 40 side-draught carburettors, Dell'Orto would be the best for a road car, but Weber second, and Solex probably last choice unless you are after originality - but then the manifolds I can supply are not original anyway.  They are cheaper as they are not cast alloy but made from flanges machined and then alloy tubes welded across for the passages.  However, they also incorporate the extension coolant housing which you need, like the original, and all for a lower price than those sold previously. (see photos)

This car was a only being set up last week-end and isn't complete yet, but you can see we are using 15mm trumpets on the inlet side, and hopefully there will be an air box eventually to take the air intake lower so it is cool and not from the very top which is much too hot.

If you look at the first photo showing the extension jacket, you can also see the 'S' dipstick tube which is different to the standard 2.2 tube, and you either need that or modify the original.  Depending on where you got the twin side-draught carbs. they may also need new throttle brackets to join the two as the carbs. are closer together compared to say those on a Lotus or Jensen and their linkage will be too wide.

Underneath there also needs to be a different throttle cable bracket, so making your own proper twin side-draught carb. setup is not so straight forward as you might think.  I only have a few inlet manifolds at the moment although we can probably get more made if there was a demand.  I don't have the other parts!  

Contact me if you are interested and want to know more.  (roy@matraclub.org.uk)

As for the coolant header tank float level, that is an easy modification which is described in my technical article on the cooling system and suggested mods. that you can download from my website.  I have it on my car and it works well.

Roy
« Last Edit: July 02, 2021, 11:45:47 am by roy4matra » Logged

njesper
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Posts: 128



« Reply #108 on: July 05, 2021, 05:10:50 pm »

Hi Jesper,

6mm outside dia. for this top inlet spigot pipe would be fine then for your car and standard 2.2 murenas too, so they can dump the reducer.

The cost price to me from Brise is £175:00 plus 20% V.A.T. plus cost postage to Denmark, which I am happy to do for you if you want?

I have specified that the baffle plate should be mounted 120mm. from the top rather than the current 90mm. to enable the installation of the float level switch via a 22mm. hole.

Brise pressure test these tanks, so I would not get them to pre-drill this hole as it is such a simple thing for the individual to do before they mount the tanks if they want a float switch.

Cheers,

Graham

Hey again Graham, if you could still get hold of the guys who made these headertanks, I would like to buy one, and get it shipped to Denmark. I don't trust my old crackled plastic tank anymore  Grin
Best, Jesper
Denmark
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GP
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Posts: 296



« Reply #109 on: July 05, 2021, 11:02:46 pm »

Hi Jesper,

I was getting them made in bulk for me personally to keep the cost down and selling them at cost to help out guys here on the Forum. Twice I did this over the years.

The last lot I had made the guy who wanted one first then pulled out after I had spent over a £1000:00 of my own money!  Angry
Dick Head was his name I think?  Grin His was the one I offered you in 2015 which is now long gone.........

Brise do not have any dimensions or anything and if they made a one off for you I would expect it to much more expensive.

I am definitely not willing or even able to get involved in any more projects like this at the moment. Sorry.

If you were to ask on the Forum (Wanted) some of the guy's may have their old plastic ones they replaced available to you. Or even an aluminium one I had made they purchased and never fitted?

Cheers,

Graham
« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 01:04:33 am by GP » Logged
njesper
Sr. Member
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Posts: 128



« Reply #110 on: July 06, 2021, 11:18:28 am »

Oa... super sorry to hear about that deal going wrong. Well, then, I might look at other alternatives.
Thanx again for the prompt responce.

Best, Jesper
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #111 on: July 10, 2021, 08:02:41 am »

I have a non-leaking plastic tank which I can send you, Jesper.
/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
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