| Home  Blogs Help Search Login Register  
« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 Print
Author Topic: Norwegian 2.2S  (Read 32510 times)
Oetker
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 1048



« Reply #30 on: January 31, 2013, 10:51:14 pm »

There is a tutorial from Roy Gilliaard somewhere on this forum where everything is described.
The link is dead. https://www.icloud.com/mobileme/not_found/

Don't you have a workshop manual?
Logged

I feel like Jonah, only my fish looks different.
Murena 2.2 Red 1982. Murena 1.6 black on places.
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #31 on: February 01, 2013, 10:56:55 am »

Hi Oetker!

Workshop manual, not yet.  Sad

Have just jumped into the Matra world you know  Grin and I llove it. The manuals, are they to find in english and german, or only german?

Have made a list of parts needed, but not got time to ordered them yet, also manual and I think that is german.


Have checked up the cooling system and engine, was afraid of some defective things here, but I have been lucky, the car seems to be in really good condition. Only thing that do not work good is the right rear calipper. The car have only been running 60500 km and the engine have a beautiful crispy sound with original exhaust muffler. But is it original 4 - 1 system on the car? On my is it 4 outlets tubes and 4 tubes that goes down to a horisontal 1 tube system before original muffler........



 




Logged
klumzer
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 370



« Reply #32 on: February 01, 2013, 02:32:00 pm »

Try this page:

http://www.matraclub.org.uk/pdf/Brakes.pdf

I also have a 4-1 exhaust system on my car. If I know well it is not original. There should be a 4-2 iron cast collector and a 2-1 collector tube. In a new set of gaskets you could find the gasket what is not used in our cars.

Anders or Roy wrote me earlier, that the original iron cast gets cracked very often, maybe that is the reason of the common replacement.

Logged
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #33 on: February 01, 2013, 05:10:05 pm »

Dear all of you. Smiley

Thanks Klumzer!. Have been looking at the link you posted, Its great! But it say nothing about pad rempoval. I want to start with that, clean and greae all up, and see how it work.

Am I completly stupid  Grin  
Have been looking at the rear calipper on my car. There is a frame bolted to the trailing arm. On this frame there is a calipper fitted, and this calipper cover the brakepads. Do I have to rempove all completly to get the pads out?... Or is it a way I dont understand to get the pads free, easily.

 Wink Grin
Logged
Matra_Hans
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 642


Owner of Bagheera, Rancho, Murena & Espace


« Reply #34 on: February 03, 2013, 05:45:31 pm »

The calibre is fixed to the trailing arm with (a bracket and) two bolts. Remove the two bolts hand the calibre can be removed. Unscrew the brake hose if you want the calibre up on your workshop table.

Hans
Logged
Jon Weywadt
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 962



« Reply #35 on: February 03, 2013, 06:21:21 pm »

Dear all of you. Smiley

Thanks Klumzer!. Have been looking at the link you posted, Its great! But it say nothing about pad rempoval. I want to start with that, clean and greae all up, and see how it work.

Am I completly stupid  Grin  
Have been looking at the rear calipper on my car. There is a frame bolted to the trailing arm. On this frame there is a calipper fitted, and this calipper cover the brakepads. Do I have to rempove all completly to get the pads out?... Or is it a way I dont understand to get the pads free, easily.

 Wink Grin

You may want to make yourself this handy tool to screw the brake pistons back, in order to make room for new pads.

It is basically just a lump of steel fitting into the grove on the piston and brazed to a hex nut. the screw and washer holds it into a rachet wrench. With this you can quickly screw the piston back in.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2013, 09:19:46 pm by Jon Weywadt » Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #36 on: February 03, 2013, 10:58:24 pm »

 Smiley

That tool was nice, thanks!

But to change brakepads, is it really nessesary to remove the complete calipper from the trailing arm?
Logged
Jon Weywadt
YaBB God
*****
Posts: 962



« Reply #37 on: February 04, 2013, 09:26:22 pm »

Smiley

That tool was nice, thanks!

But to change brakepads, is it really nessesary to remove the complete calipper from the trailing arm?

The pads are held in place by a metal wedge on top and bottom and a spring clip. The wedge is prevented from sliding out by a piece of it bent up in one end and a small pin or clip at the other. If you pull out this clip you can slide the wedges out and I believe it is then possible to get the pads out. I don't think I have tried that myself, but you may be in luck. Cheesy
Give it a try.
Logged

Matranaut par excellence Cool
TimS
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 172



« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2013, 01:30:30 pm »

I've just replaced all of the pads on my car and did three without removing the caliper from the vehicle.

Only removed one due to damaged bleed nipple.

Slide out the metal wedges, gave them all a good clean with an angle grinder, wire brushed the calipers and banjo nuts then it all went back together with a bit of grease.

Pistons can also be would in with a long thick pair of pliers, I found.

Roy's book is excellent for this and he makes the note of getting the springs and pins in the right way. Most of mine were upside down and someone had fitted rear pads to the front!

It's not a hard job, just need another set of hands for bleeding.
Logged
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #39 on: February 14, 2013, 07:29:13 pm »

Today I received  a new workshop manual, rear brake service parts and new set of brakelines nylon/stainless type from Simon. Next week I am going to Herning to work there at the camper exhibision, and after that, my brakes rear are going to be cleaned and work well again.
Smiley
Logged
RazorbackNOR
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 494



« Reply #40 on: February 15, 2013, 08:37:26 pm »

Alfared:
Have a look at my post for pictures, and call me if you have any questions.  Wink
Logged

2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #41 on: February 17, 2013, 02:09:52 pm »

Been at your thread now, and I could see the function of the different parts.

Have you brougt new calippers rear? or ...
Logged
RazorbackNOR
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 494



« Reply #42 on: February 17, 2013, 11:20:09 pm »

nope, cleaned, sandblasted and painted with Biltema Caliper Paint 50/50 gold/silver.
Logged

2010 Mazda 3 1,6  Diesel Gunmetal Blue
1983 Matra Murena 2.2 Platine
50cc Pocketbike
IPSC shooter
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #43 on: April 01, 2013, 10:04:28 pm »

Did buy the same paint some days ago from Biltema. Smiley Thanks!!

Today I did remove trailing arms and driveshafts, no problems, and all work was done in less than one hour. The car has low milage and the easy work today did maybe confirm that. No trouble, everything was almost to easy to remove. I will, clean, glassblast the calippers and paint. The disc will be sandblasted and painted, the trailing arm will be sandblasted outside and inside and painted with a extra Owatrol oil treatment inside. New wheelbearings mounted. Bushings no need to be replaced.

Have also removed the old Velm sunroof, and fitted the new Webasto/Hollandia sunroof and this was much better.

This was a nice holyday with beautiful weather and also some quality time in garage.

 Smiley
Logged
alfafred
Full Member
***
Posts: 50


Murena 2,2 S


WWW
« Reply #44 on: April 02, 2013, 06:34:06 pm »

Have this afternoon been sandblasting trailing arms and some small parts.
I have the last 30 years had much nice old cars that I have restorde a bit. And always found lots more trouble than I was expecting. On this Murena its opposite, the car is much better than I thougt....
The trailing arms was not so beautiful to look at from beginning. After the work today this afternoon, outside and inside(did make a 12 mm hole in the bottom) and also gave them some sand and compressed air inside, they was without any rust damage. Now I have cleaned them totally and are going to give them 3 layers of Owatrol, 2 layers of mix 50/50% Owatrol/Arcanol and at last 3 layers of Arcanol outside, Inside only owatrol blown inside with ompressed air.




Here I am almost finished with the left side.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2013, 06:36:23 pm by alfafred » Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 Print 
« previous next »
Jump to: