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 on: September 21, 2018, 10:06:52 pm 
Started by Colin - Last post by Colin
I am looking for an original air box from a 2.2 Murena, complete with all it's brackets. My car has been converted to twin carbs, on pancake air filters, but I an planning to build a proper induction system, to do so I need the complete system as fitted to a standard down draft carburettor, to modify.

 on: September 21, 2018, 06:11:38 pm 
Started by Franglaisman - Last post by Franglaisman
As it reads: I'm after an original steering wheel for a Murena - preferably a brown one please.

Please message me here if you can help.

Many thanks in advance.  Smiley

 on: September 06, 2018, 03:32:43 pm 
Started by Rayburn - Last post by roy4matra
Please note my important update to the last posting, thanks.


 on: September 01, 2018, 01:28:00 pm 
Started by Rayburn - Last post by roy4matra
About filling tank, don't fill with a hot engine to the max.
Because there is a plastic tank it will shrink during cooldown and fuel will be spilled making the floor wet.

It is not the tank that changes shape (well very little anyway) it is the fuel itself that takes up less volume when cold compared to when hot.  As you fill the fuel tank, the fuel coming from the underground storage tank is cold.  Once in the Murena it will not only warm to ambient temperature, but actually get heated further because of the tanks location in the engine compartment.  That expands the fuel and since the breather valve is quite low in the filler pipe neck, the increased volume means that the fuel floods the valve.  From there it leaks out through the overflow/vent hose, onto the floor.

The result is the same as Herman states, that you MUST not fill the tank and then park it up straight away otherwise you will end up with a pool of fuel under the car, and the fumes from this are highly combustible.

There was a modification kit  for the filling problem...


There was another modification that moved the ventilation valve to the top of the fuel tank, with the original hole blanked off. (as with the 'S' models)  It did not matter then if the fuel reached the height of the original valve position, as it warmed up, since it would still be contained.  The valve in the top of the tank is much too far above the surface to ever be reached and can therefore do its job correctly.

I have now produced a technical article covering various aspects of the fuel tank and breather system, and this is available for download from my website, and the new technical section.

P.S. If you downloaded that fuel article before today (6th September) please delete it, and download the new * updated * one.  I had to amend it with regard to the CBS ventilation valve as it does not have the thread right up to the collar.

 on: August 28, 2018, 05:40:48 pm 
Started by Johan Edström - Last post by roy4matra

I posted a WTB add for a Murena 2,2 some time ago on this forum, but have not bought any car yet. I have though been offered a interesting 2,2 Murena 1982, with only around 30000 km, totally original but has not been on the road since 1984. The owner has started the car, and driven it short distances on a regular basis. It is Hudson green, with brown velour interior😀

Question is, how does one value such a car ? The owner ( i think ) is looking to get around 10,000€ for it. Is that a fair price for such a car ? Im asking you people here on this forum, since i think this is the place to get the best, and most honest answers. Im aware that it is going to take time and that im going to spend more money on it just to get it on the road again.

I realise this posting is a little old now, and you may have already made your decision, whether to buy or not.  However, partly for others in a similar situation at any time, one of the first questions to ask is how has this car been stored?  If the car has been used for the same mileage every year from new, then to have around 30,000 kms in 36 years it means an average annual mileage of approx. 800 kms, or just 16 kms per week!!  The likelihood is that the amount the car has been driven will have hardly got it warm enough to dry things properly, and the amount of time on choke whilst cold, relative to the time without choke once warmed will be high.  Why does this matter?  Well the additional (rich) fuel on choke has a washing action on the oiled surfaces, for one thing, and that can accelerate wear.  The other thing is how the car was cleaned and stored.  If it was used a little but often, it would get dirty and need cleaning from time to time.  If it was stored inside, then was it dried first or left wet?  All these can affect various parts of the car.  If it spent long periods inactive and did the occasional longer journey, that might help except that this can also cause different problems with other items.  Any long periods of inactivity should be planned and the car properly 'taken off road' and stored as such.  There are many things that should be done to protect a car for long inactivity, such as having it on stands and not left on its wheels where tyres and bearings left in one position will suffer, as one simple example.  Bare metal parts that are exposed to moist air and therefore corrosion, such as brake discs, various engine and gearbox internal parts, etc. require covering.

The biggest advantage is the chassis will be 'tighter' having not been flexed as much through normal road usage, so it will still feel like a new car, and things like seats and carpets should still be in very good condition.  If it has not spent long in the sun the paint work should still be good and almost like new.  Similarly all the trim should also be in excellent condition.

However, to give you an example of what can happen, I bought my car new and used it all the time like a normal car and obviously did various repairs as well as servicing over the years to keep it in top condition.  I then bought a second Murena which had only done around 50,000 kms from new, looked excellent and felt really nice to drive, but...  during my first year of ownership I ended up having to do most of the same repairs as I'd done over the years to my regularly used higher mileage car!

It appeared many items failed on time not just mileage, and thus needed to be rectified even though it had done less than half my original car's mileage.  I have said this many times, but I will say it again - cars remain in better condition mechanically and electrically when used regularly compared to those left unused.  I know this from long experience.  The main items that generally do not suffer are bodywork and trim if the car is inside and protected.

So buying a car like this with exceptionally low mileage can be a great way to get a lovely example that is still pristine in looks, but don't even think it will not need much work in other areas.  So it will cost more to get it back into a regularly usable state, but as long as you accept this, it should be a lovely example once it is done.

I'm not so sure 10,000 Euros is too high but it would depend on a careful examination to see how original it is, and how much might need re-working before it could be used regularly.


 on: August 28, 2018, 02:37:37 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by Colin
That's good news, mine is in desperate need of these better bushes! That said, it is now off the road till next year... not the car's fault this time, my recent operation has left me unable to drive for the next few months.

 on: August 27, 2018, 04:25:16 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
You mean the right engine mount?

The bushes are in the link which is sometimes called the engine stabiliser.  The Matra part number was 0032745900 or as Ian has pointed out Simon list as 02013.

The news that I have so far is that they are just about to produce some new bushes for another car, which look like they could also be suitable for us.  That could be good as the costs are likely to be lower than if we were having something new made just for us.


 on: August 27, 2018, 04:15:16 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by roy4matra
I have seen pictures of cars without the upper rubber strip on the front bumper.  What is involved in deleting it as I think the car looks 'cleaner' without it? What does it conceal? Does it perform any useful function?

If you leave the rubber strip off, the air will go through the gaps and under the bonnet and head light pods.  Dirt will also enter and especially in poor weather conditions the state underneath the bonnet and pods will be worse.  The air entering will also create a tendency to try to lift them.  Another aspect is that the air flow with the strip in place, gets lifted slightly and the bonnet and more importantly the screen stays cleaner.  This I can verify having driven a car without the strip compared to how I know my own performs.  Only larger heavier objects get through this airflow.  So for instance smaller flying insects in the daytime, moths at night, etc. tend to go straight over the car whilst something such as a bumble bee would probably hit the screen.

I have most of the panels off the car at the moment so I can't experiment and I would be interested in any comments that you may have.  I am, at present, in the process of assembling both front and rear bumpers off the car.

Ron Murrell
Sydney, Australia

Personally I also believe the car looks better with it on.  Without it there is a step up from the bumper slope at the bonnet edge, which looks bad.  There was another bumper made by a thirdy party, not the factory, which had the slope altered to blend in with the bonnet and pods, which looked OK.


 on: August 24, 2018, 01:49:01 am 
Started by murramor - Last post by murramor
Thanks for the pictures.  I can see that the fit would be bad without some fibreglass work if I deleted the strip.  As the panels have already been painted, it looks like I will have to bite the bullet and fit the upper rubber.

 on: August 23, 2018, 07:34:27 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by TELBOY
Hi Ron, I am in the process or "putting my Murena back together" after quite a comprehensive restore. Both of the Top bumber rubbers on my cars (I used one car as a doner) were held on by double sided tape so easily removed. I don't know what actual purpose thety serve apart from asthetics. excep that on the bumper there are rubber domes to prevent both the light and bonnet from resting on the bumper. As a result the lights and bonnet do not fit flush with the bumper. Also the top part of the bumper is flat so (just a guess) prevents the rush of wind when travelling from forcing the lights and bonnet upwards.

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