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 on: August 06, 2018, 11:06:49 pm 
Started by Classicman - Last post by Classicman
I took the sump off today and found the spring lying in the oil at the bottom.  It doesn't look damaged so I refitted it to the rensioner mechanism and it all seems fine.

I also came across an error with the head assembly.  It looks like a new Holbay cam was fitted and the rockers were not replaced properly.  3 of the 4 rockers with the lubrication ports are on the inlet side of the head. 

All in all, the engine is very good, just not put together properly.  It's had new pistons and rings fitted, along with bearings.  The head was refurbished with a new camshaft etc.  Once it is put back together properly, it should be a very good engine!  At least that is good news and makes this whole process worthwhile. 

 on: August 05, 2018, 01:58:12 pm 
Started by Classicman - Last post by Jon Weywadt
Lastly, the timing chain tensioner was lying loose up against the timing chain.  The spring is nowhere to be seen and is probably lying in the sump somewhere.  Lets hope it is still in one piece.

After fixing the timing chain tensioner I looked for the original spring in the oil sump while changing oil. Using a magnet on a flexible rod through the drain hole, I poked around in the sump and, lo and behold, out came the spring.

 on: August 04, 2018, 12:42:23 pm 
Started by Abe - Last post by Classicman

Another thing that the 2.2 engine needs is a lightened flywheel as it is using the heavy standard Tagora 2.2 flywheel intended for the heavy saloon car!  I have modified a number of these engines now and all mine have lightened flywheels and I know the owners are impressed how that alone improves the pick up and acceleration. 

Roy, how much do you lighten them by?  I've got my motor apart now and may consider doing this while I'm busy with it.

 on: August 04, 2018, 12:36:26 pm 
Started by Classicman - Last post by Classicman
So, today was the day.  After lots of procrastination I decided to tackle the engine removal today.  By the end of the day I had the unit out, the engine separated from the gearbox and the head off.

The engine looks to have had a refresh in the not so distant past and everything looks pretty good.  I can't find any signs of why the cylinder head blew but will have it pressure tested for cracks nevertheless.  I'm starting to think that the head was not re-torqued after the last engine refresh and between that and the 20W60 oil that I used, caused the problem.  There was no overheating involved at all.

Lastly, the timing chain tensioner was lying loose up against the timing chain.  The spring is nowhere to be seen and is probably lying in the sump somewhere.  Lets hope it is still in one piece.

 on: August 03, 2018, 03:36:03 pm 
Started by Classicman - Last post by roy4matra
OK, so it looks like the engine will need to come out.  The end of the tensioner has come out and is lying loose up against the chain.  That will explain the timing rattle before the gasket blew.

If the end of the chain tensioner was already out and could be seen lying loose, then the spring has probably come out too, and dropped into the sump.  It could even be damaged.  So you will definitely be better removing the whole power unit, and then rebuilding it properly to cure all the oil leaks and all the other faults.

I managed to get the water pump out, but I see that it is virtually impossible to remove the crank pulley and timing cover in the car.  There is just not enough space! Will have wait for the weekend now.......

The water pump is fairly easy to remove and change, but you have to lower the gearbox end of the power train, so that the timing case end moves away from the inner wing and gives you the room to work.  However, now you will be removing the whole unit, please consider the cooling system improvements I advocate, which you can do whilst everything is easier to get at.


 on: August 03, 2018, 03:24:41 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
Hello all 2.2 owners.

This is a quick posting to let you know that I have now started proceedings with a UK company for obtaining some Polyurethane bushes to fit the engine reaction bar link. (sometimes called a stabiliser but that term can be confused with the suspension anti-roll bar so I prefer reaction bar)  I thought I would post this now to prevent anyone else duplicating this work unnecessarily.

These Metallastic bushes never lasted that long, depending on how much mileage a year you do, and how hard you drive your car. (quite hard in my case Smiley )  As the original stocks were used up some time ago, the only ones available now are reproduction items and these seem to last even less time.  In fact the *new* one I have just sent as a sample to Polybush already had a section of the rubber not bonded fully to the outer metal at one point on the circumference!  Not good for a new bush.

They are going to check if they have anything in their stock that might fit.  We cannot do this ourselves on-line, since they use drop-down lists and just like others that use these type lists, they do not include Talbot or Matra.  If they do not have anything suitable, they will then decide what is the best means for making something that we can use.

I have also suggested that they consider something a little stronger, since most of us have uprated our 2.2 engines and I think we would prefer something better than the original anyway.  They do three grades, the normal 'comfort' rating, an intermediate hardness that will probably suit us, and a 'track' type hardness.  The full hardness might cause more harshness to be felt, so the intermediate will probably be a good compromise between the basic rating and something that will suit our uprated engines and still last longer.

I will update this posting once I have more details.


 on: August 02, 2018, 02:15:36 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Still lots to do, ie:- bonnet, fog lights, covers, top rubber strip and trim! excuse the broom handle keeping the bonnet up!!!!

 on: August 01, 2018, 05:54:34 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
You may remember several pages ago I had removed the front impact strip from the bumper as this had been bolted on. Obviously the holes left were too big for rivets so I obtained some counter sunk screw headed bolts and have tig welded these to the metal strip before re-fitting

 on: August 01, 2018, 05:49:48 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Will do Pete. Thanks for advice

 on: August 01, 2018, 09:42:25 am 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by suffolkpete
My car was the same, the emergency lifting cable was missing altogether so I bought a lorry engine stop cable, I think from Car Builder Solutions and cut it down to size, I used the bit left over to re-make the heater water valve cable.  For your safety cable, get a length of piano wire, 1.2 mm should do.

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