To my knowledge there is no way to turn the bag off.

HI,

if I had vehicle hand book, I would loook in it. Actualy I have one but it's in Italian language, which I don't understand.

Thanks for your answers.
and greetings from Slovenia

Kristian

there is nothing on the end of the dash. No key hole....

Hi Florian and welcome to the forum,

i just went the 2000 km-way to Rovaniemi but didn´t saw your Matras there. Okay, was only on Google Earth ;-) So, perhaps they showed me an old picture ;-)

To get your Murena run: Before you can adjust the carbs everything around the ignition has to work. Means: sparks, plugs, cable, distributor, cap, rotor, point of ignition. Also it is important that your car has a good minus-contact to the chassis. There are several points where the car has these contact-points. Our cars are old, so these points have often corrossion.

Your vacuum-system has to be close of course. ( On my Murena i just throwed out all the vacuum-shit. The way from the engine to the front ist just too long in my opinion. There will be everytime the risk of leaking. I installed an electrical vacuum-pump for break-master and lights. Since i did this, the engine is running much smoother. )

When ignition and vacuum works, you can go to the carbs. You wrote, that the carbs are refurbished. You need to be sure, that they are completed correctly after refurbishing and all inside parts are undamaged, working and adjusted correctly.  Also all rubber-parts should be in good condition. The distance between carbs and inlet-manifold should also be adjusted correctly.

When you are sure, that all these is okay, you need to synchronise the two carbs to each other and after you did this you can adjust the gasoline/air-mix and idle. But before i write this down with all details it would be easier to send you these part of the workshop-manual by e-mail. But the manual is in german :-( Would this help you

About your exhaust: a larger end doesn´t mean to be a Devil. Sorry for disappointing you ;-). A Devil has one or two ends on each side and it has two mufflers. You can see a picture here: http://simon-auto.de/matra/deutsch/mur_tuning.htm

Hilsen
Kai

From my experience there are only two possibilities with the ignition modul: it works or it doesn´t work. Means: you will get a spark or not. Nothing between. I had to change my modul two times. It was everytime the same, it was just dead and didn´t produced any ignition-spark.

But i think it could be possible that the modul has interruptions if it is losing the minus-contact to the chassis. Just an idea.

Hi Matraciens,

thank you for your replies.

Roy, yes, mine is the S 142 prep with twin Solex 40 ADDHE carburators, and one exhaust pipe on the left side, which has got the larger end, I think it's a devil.
The values for the gases are around 1500 with an upper limit that should be 1000 as the inspection says, and the other value is 8.5-9 with the upper allowable limit being 4. The engine isn't quite running round enough constantly. WHen it does, the values are ok. When it doesn't they go too high.
Interesting what you say with the norms for the values. I wonder, because 2008-11 the car passed the exhaust test every time.

For the headlight mechanism, mine definitely doesn't keep tight AS long as yours. 3-4 hours after turning off the engine, the lights go up around 1.5 times, 12 hours after only about 1 time.
I have checked all the hoses, the vacuum "football egg" in the back, the white valve, the hoses under the car, and also changed the vacuum pump in the front.
But even if there would be a leak, the values actually don't change e.g. when I close the whole system off (at the end of the hose between the triangular adapter coming from the engine and the white valve.I had the car be inspected without the vacuum system connected and the values were still too high.

How do you do these exhaust inspections in the UK or Denmark? What are the accepted values there?
The engine had also definitely some ignition problems, so I ordered new cables and spark plugs. In the old ones I could see that three of whem were black and dry, while the fourth was black and wet. Those spark plugs were still from when the broken head gasket was in the engine. Maybe with the new ones it won't have the little explosions in the exhausts come to an end.

Wow Roy, your Quadra sounds really nice. What a rare car! Mine is also a I phase 2 1990, but without leather or ABS. The condition inside is ok, but the Paint comes off, so I want to re-paint it at some point.

I need to check if I can come to the meeting in Denmark. Would be nice to meet some of you there with the Murena.

Cheers

Florian

On following up on my problems with my 2.2 a friend let me borrow 2 of he's ignition modules, since he noticed similar problems with the module on he's Peougot.
My question thou is: what is this moduls purpose, and is there any way of checking if it is faulty?

Hi

I can't point you in the direction of the guide I remember it vaguely though.

Recently took my intercooler out to check for leaks , I split my cooler from the radiator and left radiator insitu quite simple just slide up the little spring clips holding the cooler to the radiator and it slides out .
You will need to cut black double wall plastic stuff down the sides though .

I think I loosened the head lights to be able to remove the grill you need a torch to see the screws holding the grill on they are torx head from memory there is one either side by the headlights and one in the centre below bonnet latch area.

Good luck !

Do you have the vehicle hand book Kristian?  This is the sort of information that is contained in them.  If you don't have one, I would have thought one of the other Espace III owners here might have a hand book and could check for you.  I'll check Dialogys later, but I'm not sure it will be in there, and it has been too long since I saw one of these cars, let alone worked on one, so I can't remember now.

Roy.

Hello Lars,

When I worked for Renault UK we didn't repair driveshafts of course, simply replaced them if we had to, although whilst I was there we never had one fail.  So I have no knowledge of the relative quality of any repair kits, sorry.

However, if those prices are correct for exactly the same thing, then at just 35 EU it has to be worth using one of the NK units!  I would have thought any drive shaft CV kit must be a certain standard, otherwise it could not do the job, and it can't be nearly five times worse.  So even if it failed in say half the time of the SKF you have still saved yourself a considerable amount.

Roy