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 11 
 on: May 02, 2018, 11:07:31 am 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by roy4matra

The backview wil not be any better if it works Grin

Herman


I note the smiley, but actually if you have a properly working heated rear window system, they can clear the glass fine.  It's just many do not have really good working H.R.W. systems.  I've had my car from new and it worked and cleared the rear glass just fine.  All the connections must be in good order, the voltage at the screen must be full 13 volts plus with the engine running and all the lines across must be intact, with a good earth on the left.

However, one problem with the Murena is that the airflow stays 'attached' down the rear screen (unless you have a rear spoiler) so if the outside air is really cold, this slows the heating of the glass making it take longer before it has a reasonable affect.

Roy.


The biggest problem is the water leaking from the backlights when it rains.
It soaks the carpet in the boot and because the exhaust warming it up you have lot of damp there that leads to a misty rearwindow.
Later in production they made a housing for the bachlights  that made the problem better but still not realy good.


Herman

Yes and also don't ignore the holes for the number plate!  Water will often leak in through those too.  I have stick-on license plates so I don't drill holes in the panel. (if you use good quality double-sided adhesive tape and degrease the area properly the plate will not come off)  Seal up any holes drilled previously.

Roy

 12 
 on: May 01, 2018, 05:25:23 pm 
Started by murramor - Last post by roy4matra
Does the nylon fluid pipe simply pull out of the cylinder? I hesitate to pull too hard in case I break something!
regards
Ron

As I've just had a request for some help concerning the clutch hydraulics, it is worth bringing this thread up to date for those that may have not come across it before.

The Murena uses fairly conventional clutch master and slave cylinders, but it does NOT connect them together with a metal pipe, flared ends and flare nuts.  A plastic pipe is used and this presented the engineers with a problem - how do you seal a plastic pipe into the master and slave cylinders which were meant to take a metal pipe with flared ends?

What they came up with was this.  First the plastic pipe ends had metal inserts pushed in to stop the pipe collapsing inwards under pressure (see photo below).  Then the flared nut was put on the pipe followed by a washer and then a small rubber tube which would do the sealing (see Herman's photo in the previous posting).  You push the pipe fully in to the cylinder, and whilst holding it there, you tighten down the flare nut.  That has the effect of pushing the washer against the rubber tube and squashing it such that it presses hard into the thread of the cylinder on the outside diameter and it presses hard against the plastic pipe on its inside diameter.  This jams and locks everything solid.

Because the pipe is jammed in very tight, when you wish to remove the plastic pipe many years later to do a repair, you can unscrew the flare nut easily, but the rubber will still be jammed in tight and it will take some effort to pull the end of the pipe out.  When you do get it out, the rubber will have been destroyed and you must make sure you get all the bits out of the cylinder before any reassembly.  After some years bolted tight, the plastic pipe will also have deformed near the end, and become permanently narrower.  You must cut off this narrowed section, after first removing the metal support pin inserted there.  If you don't cut off the narrow section, then replace the pipe insert, the new tube seal will not be able to seal the pipe in the cylinder.

Roy

 13 
 on: April 29, 2018, 11:10:32 pm 
Started by Hoss - Last post by Hoss
Looking for an autobox for a V6 2001 espace, LM0 001
I know these are usually the failure point so getting a good s/h one is a long shot, but trying anyway.
I'd prefer one with low milage or some sort of history, as taking the engne out is not a small task.

 14 
 on: April 26, 2018, 08:00:15 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Thanks Oetker. Appreciate the comment. Back to work tomorrow so no more work on her for a couple of weeks Sad

 15 
 on: April 26, 2018, 02:54:51 pm 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by sc1962
thanks Gib but iv jst acquired two new old stock fronts so i just have to sort out the rears now.(hopefully they fit as they are simca 1100)
thx

steve

 16 
 on: April 26, 2018, 09:06:26 am 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by Gib
I have a pair of barely used fronts (Monroe i can find the number when i get home at the weekend). That you can have just PM me your address.
I have gone for Gaz on the recommendation of others i can't remember the price but it was reasonable compared to other options.

 17 
 on: April 25, 2018, 04:11:58 pm 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by Oetker
Check the connectors below the waterbottle in the front.
They tend to corode.
The backview wil not be any better if it works Grin

I note the smiley, but actually if you have a properly working heated rear window system, they can clear the glass fine.  It's just many do not have really good working H.R.W. systems.  I've had my car from new and it worked and cleared the rear glass just fine.  All the connections must be in good order, the voltage at the screen must be full 13 volts plus with the engine running and all the lines across must be intact, with a good earth on the left.

However, one problem with the Murena is that the airflow stays 'attached' down the rear screen (unless you have a rear spoiler) so if the outside air is really cold, this slows the heating of the glass making it take longer before it has a reasonable affect.

Roy.

The biggest problem is the water leaking from the backlights when it rains.
It soaks the carpet in the boot and because the exhaust warming it up you have lot of damp there that leads to a misty rearwindow.
Later in production they made a housing for the bachlights  that made the problem better but still not realy good.



Herman

 18 
 on: April 25, 2018, 04:01:26 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by Oetker
The car looks better every time.
Way to go Cool

 19 
 on: April 25, 2018, 03:59:25 pm 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by Oetker
I use Simca 1100 on the front.
The rear are specific Murena.
You can use adjustable Spax G695 on the rear and need to use the ols spring seats.

front




They work OK.

Rear.







Lowered by the Spax.


Herman

 20 
 on: April 24, 2018, 11:44:20 pm 
Started by sc1962 - Last post by lewisman
Thanks lewisman.do you know how long it will be ?? i am prepared to wait and am in no hurry.my dash has a big crack in it which was there when i bought it to be fair and i also require the radio console if you have it.mine has been butchered beyond repair im afraid(different owner and radios etc ?? Also i would be prepared to help you remove it as obviously id prefer to collect as its not exactly postal size Smiley.

thanks

steve Smiley
Happy to accept help in swapping out the dashboard but I suspect that I am a bit too far away. Google HS2 9LP for more details. :-) I have a couple of Alfa projects on the go that will take priority. Realistically it will be forwarded the end of the year. Where are you located?

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