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 11 
 on: August 08, 2020, 05:41:29 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
I wrote a booklet, many years ago now, on the Bendix rear brakes as fitted to the Bagheera, Murena, and Espace I Quadra, explaining why they always seized, and how to strip them and rectify the problem, because everyone either had had this problem or would get it, as it was inevitable owing to the design and materials used.  When I first wrote it, the normal rear brakes fitted to most cars in the U.K. and Europe, were drum brakes, and since these were discs with self adjusting pistons, and a combined hand brake mechanism, they were at the time unconventional, and many mechanics had no experience or knowledge of how to work on them.

Some of the Fiats in the sixties had a similar set up, but certainly in the U.K. back in the sixties the cars on the road here were mostly English and there were very few imports.

I bought my Murena new in January 1983 and after about 50,000 kms or 4 years, I had the problem of my rear brakes sticking badly, and stripped them to find out why.  I found out, rectified them properly and didn't have any more problems.  However, I then found I was not alone and others were having the same problems except that many if not all of other repairs were simply insufficient as they were not properly overhauled, so they would continue to have problems.  Some cars even ended up being taken off the road as they couldn't get them fixed other than by fitting completely new rear brakes, but that simply meant that in another few years the problem would happen again.

Hence the reason I wrote my Brake Manual.  This has been available from my website for many years as a free download, and as I have stated in it, if the brakes are overhauled exactly as I have outlined, then you should have no further sticking problems.  Unfortunately many do not separate the alloy caliper from the steel mounting frame and clean away the corrosion, and if this is not done, the results will be poor and any improvement will last only a short time.

From my own experiences with the calipers I have overhauled, I know that they will last and have claimed this in that manual, that you can expect 10 years without further problems.  Recently Anders sent me the rear calipers off his Murena to overhaul, not because he was experiencing sticking rear brakes, but simply because he is doing a major restoration of his Murena which is coming up to 40 years old and decided it would be good if the brakes were checked as well.  This is a car I have known for many years, originally as I used to service it regularly for a previous owner in London, then I had it for approx. four years before selling it to Anders.  So I know when I did the first overhaul on the rear brakes, when Pierre owned it before me, and this is the first time they have been stripped since then.

I am pleased to report that they have lasted so well that they have been the easiest to strip in all the years I have been doing these and there was almost no corrosion which is why they were still free and working well!  So I have now increased my claim in the Brake Manual to say: a further '25 years' not Ten.  I know these particular calipers have not needed this work in fact in 30 years, but to be conservative I am 'only' claiming a further trouble free 25 years since different owners and cars are used in different ways and environments.

The outcome though is that if the calipers are overhauled correctly as I state in the manual, these are the results you can confidently expect.

Roy

 12 
 on: August 08, 2020, 11:56:30 am 
Started by Grapes - Last post by Morne
Thank you Roy for confirming. Now it also makes sense why most parts places only list one type of wheel bearing.

 13 
 on: August 08, 2020, 08:52:50 am 
Started by mhi - Last post by Anders Dinsen
A quick update for any who are still interested: my Espace has now moved 540 miles or 870 km since I replaced the fuel pump + filter + temperature sensor, with no repeats of the engine-stop symptom. That doesn't prove I have fixed it, but it does suggest that I haven't made the fault worse.

A sceptic approach to the quality of one's own car repairs never hurts, but sounds like you've done a good job!

Congrats so far Smiley

Best,
Anders

 14 
 on: August 08, 2020, 05:32:49 am 
Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Hi all, it's been a while since I posted. Sorry for that! I've completed a few items over summer and made some good progress:

  • Brush cleaning of the engine room is almost done. I still have some work to do cleaning the inside of the right side bracket on top of the mounting points for the rear semi-trailing arms where a lot of road dirt has collected and I have corrosion problems (pictures later), but that's all
  • Brush cleaning of the right wheel arch and surface under the wing is in progress. There is quite a bit of white ZnO build up which I'm finding difficult to remove, but I'm slowly making progress. While red rust is obviously worse in itself, it's tolerable applying the Zinga paint. Zinkoxides blocks the regalvanisation process so should be removed as much a possible.
  • I removed the shocks and springs and has started cleaning and painting them.
  • I removed the two brake lines in the engine room and under the wheel arches in order to gain access to certain areas. Unfortunately I coulnd't undo the nut on the RH rear brake line where it joins the brake hose so had to cut that and therefore now need to make a new one.
  • The rear brake calipers have been sent to Roy who has checked and refurbished them. Roy may update here on the good state of them despite the fact that it's almost 30 years ago they were refurbished (by him) last time.
  • Ordered valve seals for both cylinder heads
  • Did some cleaning of my spare cylinder head
  • Tested the renovated starter successfully
  • Painted the fuel tank straps
  • Borrowed an engine crane from my neighbor, removed the gearbox from the engine and moved the engine to my workshop

Here's a little video of the starter test: https://www.flickr.com/gp/adinsen/e3G85T

/Anders

 15 
 on: August 07, 2020, 07:27:13 pm 
Started by Grapes - Last post by roy4matra
The front and rear bearings are the same.

I had a quick look at the Simon part number catalogue, an they show different numbers for the front and rear wheel bearings (12011 and 11012). Are they indeed the same?


Yes they are indeed.  It is simply that like most companies they have a section for front axle and another for rear axle, and in Simon's numbering system the first two digits are the section number so one starts '11' (front axle) and the other '12' (rear axle).

Roy

 16 
 on: August 07, 2020, 07:17:48 pm 
Started by V46 - Last post by roy4matra
My Murena Fuel Level Sensor has rusted away .
Please can any Murena owner post a photo ( with dimensions ) of a one in good working condition , specially the quadrant and fuel level arm and float .

I might have found a specialist who will make a replacement .
 
Fingers crossed David !

As stated before David there are pictures in my Fuel System technical article, although owing to a previous poor web hosting company and poor internet connections which I'm suffering a lot lately, I see my updated article was not uploaded!  However, it is there now as I've checked again.

Roy

 17 
 on: August 07, 2020, 06:39:10 pm 
Started by Grapes - Last post by Morne
The front and rear bearings are the same.

I had a quick look at the Simon part number catalogue, an they show different numbers for the front and rear wheel bearings (12011 and 11012). Are they indeed the same?


 18 
 on: August 07, 2020, 04:02:15 pm 
Started by Moes - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Hello

Yesterday I spend a couple of hours in the garage, after a few weeks of no work on the Bagheera.

I got the spark plugs changed, a new additional air bleed nipple on the coolant system installed, and I eventually got in the mood to have a look at the gearbox.

I tried to gently grind/polish the inside surface of one of the new locking-gears (I have found out that others call them "sliders" or "sliding sleeves"), it did make a noticeable difference, but I donīt feel good about this solution.

I have decided to use my new synchromesh rings, and my old sliders, even though I have read, that the sliders should be changes when the synchromesh rings are being changed. I have decided to go with this solution because it feels much easier to push/slide the old slider onto the a new synchromeshring, that a new slider onto the new synchromesh ring.

Best regards Frederik   

This is interesting. It's always risky to combine different parts, but at the end of the day what matters is how it works. Have you made progress on this job? Sorry for not checking the forum for the past weeks!

/Anders

 19 
 on: August 07, 2020, 01:27:04 pm 
Started by V46 - Last post by V46
My Murena Fuel Level Sensor has rusted away .
Please can any Murena owner post a photo ( with dimensions ) of a one in good working condition , specially the quadrant and fuel level arm and float .

I might have found a specialist who will make a replacement .
 
Fingers crossed David !

 20 
 on: August 07, 2020, 11:47:02 am 
Started by Lennart Sorth - Last post by roy4matra
as you may know neither Carjoy or Simon sell a replacement .

no - I did't actually know! - drat! - my sensor IS in the tank, but the potentiometer has been poor for ages, and I "fixed" it a few decades ago by bending the needle a bit to run over a different part of the potentiometer windings, with the result that it reads quite a lot too low.  I recently attempted repairing it, as it was close to falling apart, but it still reads too low.

/Lennart

It appears a number of owners have not been downloading or checking my technical articles, because there has been one on the fuel system, available for quite some time now, and it includes photos and resistance readings if you need to get a repair or another made.  (18:00 7th Aug. update - my updated article wasn't there if anyone checked earlier, but it definitely is there now!)

There is also a module available now that you can set the readings of a different sender to the Murena instrument by setting it up for the empty, quarter full, half full, three quarter full and full positions.  Once that has been done, then it will read correctly throughout the range.  Its called the Gauge Wizard 4 from Spiyda.  Check out www.spiyda.com or phone 07859 106329 (U.K. mobile)

Roy

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