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 on: January 11, 2020, 09:42:06 pm 
Started by Anders Dinsen - Last post by Anders Dinsen
Is there a better way to spend a Saturday evening than in the garage tinkering with the car? I don't think so! Cheesy

I lowered the car down on its wheels on a pair of dolleys a few days ago so I could push it over to the side. I can still make my way around the car on the left. This way I have enough space to work on the right side. Both bolts came out easily once the nuts had been knocked loose and removed. The old trailing arm looks ok, by the way, but it will be good to have two identical and new, good ones on the car. On this side, by the way, the mounting points have not been modified (as expected).

Next up is removing the hub and disc, and returning both old arms to Politecnic. Then pulling off the race from the hub, clean the hub, fit hub and disc on the new traling arm, brush clean the chassis around the mounting points, zinc paint and rust protect it, fit the new trailing arm, and get the car back on the wheel ald dolly so I can start working the right hand rear wing Smiley

 on: January 11, 2020, 08:04:35 pm 
Started by Moes - Last post by Moes
I have been talking to a local metal surface treatment company. I heard about the company from a fellow Matra owner some year ago. He had a good experience with having door brackets and other steel parts for he's Murena given a new surface treatment at this place.

I got the idea that it would be much more satisfying to have all the bolts for the gearbox, differential and engine, cleaned and given a new anti corrosion surface, now when I got it all taken apart anyway  Grin

Then I thought maybe they can also do surface treatments of aluminium. They told me that they could do surface treatments of aluminium, but there can not be any steel bushings or any steel parts left on the aluminium parts, because the treatment of aluminium will damage the steel. I was hoping to get the complete gearbox and differential housing treated, but I am not able to get all the small steel bushings out of the lid for the gearbox gear selection mechanism (without damaging them), but I think I can have all the other parts treated. I will drop by company next week with the parts Grin

I have also startet to remove the old paint from the crank case. I startet out with a paint removing gel (Nitro Mors), it does not work that great on a rough surface like cast iron.. but it does make the paint soft like rubber, and then it is rather easy to remove the paint with a wire disc brush. 

 - Frederik

 on: January 09, 2020, 05:07:34 pm 
Started by TimS - Last post by suffolkpete
There is one shown on the parts list, fitted between the inner nose cone and the bracket.

 on: January 09, 2020, 12:51:34 pm 
Started by TimS - Last post by TimS
Can anyone confirm if there should be a piece of rubber , on the inside or the outside, of the bolt that holds the front wing assembly together?

 on: January 07, 2020, 04:01:38 am 
Started by Colin - Last post by roy4matra
I've looked at the photo more closely and it's clear I don't have a standard L shaped piece on there, mine has a welded top on it where the circlip should go and I suspect someone has managed to get a circlip round the bottom end, near the bell housing, which is very difficult to get at. As it's not standard I will definitely have to get it off somehow and probably find a replacement. I hope the shaft is OK. Can that be replaced?

I'm not sure I understand this as I don't see any photo that you have referred to, and why would you need a circlip at the bottom?  The 'L' bracket can only come off the top!  However, the pin is screwed into the bell housing casing, or should be, so if you can grip the top end sufficiently you might be able to unscrew the pin out of the bell housing to remove it and the 'L' bracket.  In fact the top of the pin has a slot in it which would have allowed it to be screwed in originally using a flat blade screwdriver   It will have been fitted with threadloc though, so it will be tight.  You can use the slot to try to undo it, but you don't want to to snap the top, so if it doesn't want to undo easily, be careful.  Use a little heat around the casing where it is screwed in.

Please email me a photo of your arm and pin first though, so I can try to see what has been done.


 on: January 07, 2020, 12:07:01 am 
Started by Matraman - Last post by Matraman
Thanks Roy, that's helped me make up my mind. I've emailed Politecnic in my best Google translate French (!). I may as well do the Silentblocs and bearing at the same time, I believe they can fit them. I'll keep filling the right hand one with Waxoyl through its specially drilled holes and monitor its condition while I'm there. As you say, I can change that later if required.

The discs are 10 mm at the back and 10.5 mm at the front. Just a light coating of rust and no scoring. The car won't be doing big mileage so I think they will be fine for several years yet.

 on: January 06, 2020, 11:52:15 pm 
Started by Colin - Last post by Matraman
I've looked at the photo more closely and it's clear I don't have a standard L shaped piece on there, mine has a welded top on it where the circlip should go and I suspect someone has managed to get a circlip round the bottom end, near the bell housing, which is very difficult to get at. As it's not standard I will definitely have to get it off somehow and probably find a replacement. I hope the shaft is OK. Can that be replaced?

 on: January 06, 2020, 10:49:19 pm 
Started by Colin - Last post by roy4matra
Herman, I've also found that the L shaped pivot is too stiff, but I'm struggling to get it off. There seems to be a circlip hiding at the bell housing end of it, which I can't get to. Any special tricks to release it? I notice in your photo a tiny screw driver, did you use that as part of the trick of removing it?

The 'L' shaped arm becoming stiff on its pin is quite common, and prevents the correct side to side movement on the gear lever.

There is a small external circlip on top of a metal washer near the top of the pin stopping the arm from coming off.  A small circlip pliers shoud be all that is needed to open it up so it can be slid off.  Once off, you need to remove both rods attached to the arm, then work the arm back and forth whilst pulling it upwards to get the arm off the pin.  Remove the two 'top hat' nylon bushes, clean everything, grease it all with LM grease and refit.  Usually the nylon bushes are reusable, but if you do need new ones bronze bushes are available.

The side to side movement of the gear lever should now work freely, allowing you to get all three planes - 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th, and 5th/Rev.


 on: January 06, 2020, 10:36:53 pm 
Started by Matraman - Last post by roy4matra
Thanks Ian. The disc was in good condition and a very tight fit when I tapped it back in, so hopefully it'll stay there. I'll try your leak check idea, maybe a bit of thinner oil would be closer to warm transmission oil for cold leak checking?

I count myself lucky that the drive shafts came out OK. My biggest problem was hub nuts, but I won in the end!

This core plug is fitted as you guessed to prevent the oil escaping, or having to drain the gearbox if you want to remove a drive shaft.  When you tap it back in, even if it seems a tight fit, you should hit it hard in the centre with the ball end of a ball pein hammer.  This flattens the curved core plug and makes it lock into the hole so it should not come out again.  You don't want this dropping out inside the diff. whilst driving the car!

I have new core plugs in my stock if anyone needs one.

A small amount of swarf on the magnetic drain plug is normal, as long as there are no large pieces in it!


 on: January 06, 2020, 10:25:49 pm 
Started by Matraman - Last post by roy4matra
Hi Anders
Iíve read your thread with great interest over recent weeks since I bought my Murena 2.2 project. It has helped me to see what is possible with a single garage, which you and I both have. So while reading through it I saw your new trailing arms, very nice! Do they have to be ordered in pairs, or could I just buy one?
So if I could just get hold of a left one for now it would be another step towards getting it back onto the road after 20 years of sitting in a garage.

Hello Matraman,

You can certainly buy just one from any of the sellers, but the only accurate ones are from Politecnic as they have the angle on the bracket where the strut attaches.  The others have been welded on parallel to the arm which is incorrect, and I have not only told those suppliers, but sent photos, yet they don't seem to want to correct them.

So not only are the Politecnic ones made from better material but they are also accurate, which makes them worth the extra cost.  You have to send the old hub back as these would be too expensive to remanufacture, but normally the old ones are fine and can be reused.  If you buy the new ones first there will be a surcharge which you will get back on return of the old hub afterwards.

As Anders points out, welding suspension items is illegal in Denmark and here in the U.K. and maybe all the EU, so repairing old arms by patching them is not allowed and should cause an M.o.T. failure.

Trailing arms are such a critical part which is important for safety that fitting a pair of new arms is the best option in the long run.  As long as the RH one really is fine, then replacing the LH one now and the RH one when you have more funds should be the best way.

Also consider the state of the rear brake discs whilst replacing the trailing arms as the hub has to come off in both cases so it is best to do them at the same time.  The rear discs should be 11mm thick new, and 9mm is the minimum before replacement is needed.  2.2 rear discs are unique so are expensive unfortunately.


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