Sorry, Terry - I forgot to take pictures of the door rubber for you. Next time!

But here's a dramatic super wide angle picture of the underside of car after I've worked for an hour or so today. The support in front of the enigne can be seen in the bottom of the picture, now clean (the engine has leaked oil on it

Otherwise I'm concentrating on the mounting points, getting the car back on the wheels and then on removing the wing and working on the chassis under that.

Thank you, Anders!

I have received some new parts, a crank case gasket and oil seal set, and a lot of smaller brackets and p-clips, but no parts back from surface treatment or powder coating, and no welsh plugs yet..

At some point I will have to continue the work on the chassis, it is just no the most fun part of the work I will have to do.

Yesterday I stopped by the local metal salvage yard, and found a lovely sheet of stainless steel, from which I cut out some pieces to rebuild the tank straps which I recently bought. A metal worker seeing me weld stainless steel and mild steel together would probably laugh or cry, but I do not have access to a TIG welder, and I am sure they will last longer than the originals anyway.

 - Frederik

     

Snow... what's that?!!! Denmark may be Nordic, but we haven't had temperatures below 0 all winter this year!
Good for my working, though.

I don't think you've done anything wrong if you're coating on top of the metal to create a barrier for oxidation. The Zinga paint involves a renewed cold-galvanization process, so I'm not afraid of brushing (or even sandblasting, but I don't do that) a bit of zinc off the steel plate. Remember that warm galvanization is not just a coating, but involves a chemical reaction between the zinc and the iron that penetrates many μm into the metal. Spraying high percentage zinc paint on top starts a slow galvanization process in which a similar process happens. In short, the zinc ions like to tie themselves to the iron atoms, and oxidizes well before the iron, so as long as there are free zinc ions, rust will not happen.

Actually i NEED to brush it well down before applying the zinc paint, as corroded zinc need to be removed: It's the white salty stuff we see, and its made up of zinc-oxides, is quite hard, and effecively forms a barrier between any applied zinc paint and the iron underneath, thus preventing the regalvanization.

On top of all that, I apply rust protection to create a soft, oily/waxy corrosion barrier.

I'll check the windows next time I'm there and post some photos

I see no snow on the ground!!!!! Please excuse my ignorance, When I treated my chassis I was (at times) careful not to disturb the zinc plating and only cleaned and then over painted with several coats! although a little late, should I have completely cleaned of all the plating?  and treated the bare metal?
Also if you get a chance can you post a picture of the top door rubbers (where the window slides down into the door?), I cant get mine to sit correctly. When the window goes down they appear to come out so I am thinking I am fitting them incorrectly, (maybe upside down).

The cold is indeed... cold

I dressed warm this weekend and tonight and made some progress. The old trailing arms are now on their way back to Politecnic. The outboard mounting point needed a bit of expansion on this side too, but the new trailing arm is now a good and tight fit. I'm now cleaning the mounting points of years of dirt, getting them ready for zinc painting and rust protection. It generally looks good with only a little surface rust in some places, but nothing serious. It just needs to be brushed down and zinc painted.

Once I'm done with the mounting points, the hub and disc just need to be pressed into the bearing, and the new trailing arm fitted.

It all looks absolutely fantastic. I'm always impressed with your work - you're really doing a serious job. Let me guess about the colour... a chromed engine block would be bold, but would require a full stripdown, so probably not what you're doing. I think you'll paint it purple, that will go perfectly with the orange

Looking forward to seeing your parts. Unfortunately won't have time the coming weekends to drop by

/Anders

Hi

The colour..  It will be a surprise   At first I was going with a conservative colour choice, but them I thought.. No..  be bold!   You will have to be under the car to appreciate it anyway      

Yesterday I delivered all the bolts and nuts + some steel brackets, and the gearbox and differential housings for surface treatment at a place called Værløse Galvaniske (In Denmark), they will do a Plasma electrolytic oxidation surface treatment of my aluminium parts, and some sort og dual layer black electrolytic zink treatment of the steel bolts and brackets, which should be four times as strong than the white electrolytic zink treatment. I am very excited to see the result, I am not completely sure what to expect, they said the result (and colour) on the aluminium would depend on the quality of the aluminium, but I should expect it to be darker in colour; they could also do more funky colors like screaming red or blue, but I told them to do it colorless.    
I have also delivered all of my larger steel parts for sandblasting and black powder coating.

 - Frederik      

Greenish-yellow primer - what colour will it become? Awesome to see your progress

Today I had an hour to kill, and I got one side of the crank case primed; it feels good to do some work that is going to remain unlike most of the work I have done so far; disassembly, sanding and cleaning.  

Yesterday I started to remove rust ans loose paint on the frame and in the engine compartment. I hav not got very far with it yet, but the dust mask says otherwise    I think I will change it out with a full face gas mask the next time.

I have also ordered a set of welsh/core plugs. The first time I started up the engine 10 year ago one of the plugs was rusted, and cooling water was suddenly everywhere, back then I only changed the one plug because it was difficult to get the new plug in place while the engine was in the car.     

- Frederik

... then spoke to Pirtek. Aparently, they don't have the facilities to do anything with the pipe but braze on new bits! Oh well, more phoning around and found a specialist I think.











Here is the condition of the pipes. In 5 years, this car has done less than 3,000 miles which shows you how precious I am over it.