| Home  Blogs Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10

 1 
 on: November 29, 2020, 03:35:53 pm 
Started by matramurena - Last post by JMI83
Hi gentlemen,
I'm glad to inform you the new generation of fuse board is available: v2.3 (I am the designer of these boards since beginning)
There is 18 fuses and 8 power relay. As in the past each fuse holder is lined with a LED to see if fuse is burnt. (there is no microcrocontroler on this board)
A small documentation in English can be downloaded at http://gate.yls.fr/Milville/Murena/Docs/PFuse/The%20right%20fuse%202.3.pdf (not sure how to insert pictures)
You can buy it on Leboncoin.fr, but it should be difficult for non French people, if interested: just send me an Email at cars@yls.fr
Best regards
JMI

 2 
 on: November 29, 2020, 01:03:02 pm 
Started by Matraman - Last post by roy4matra
Now that I'm 350 miles into running in my restored 2.2 I'm venturing onto motorways and finding out that the wheels have never been balanced since being refurbished by the previous owner. There are no weights on them at all, so once I reach 60 things start wobbling.

After several attempts locally in Manchester I can't find anyone who can balance the thick alloy solid centre wheels. Can anyone give me any help on how to find somewhere in the UK which can do these 1980's wheels? Meanwhile I'll have a look for classic tyre suppliers to see if they can help. ATS can do solid centre wheels but their machine can't cope with the thickness of the Murena wheels apparently.

Check the alloy wheel refurbishers in the Manchester area and there is one in Preston which is not too far, as they have to be able to balance wheels.  Of course if it is the tyres that are out, they need to be fitted to check the overall balance, so check first if they can balance wheels with tyres on.  Also you only really need to do the two front wheels and the spare.  The rears would have to very seriously out (unlikely) to cause any problem as the rear suspension constrains them more, and since they are never going on the front, it is a waste of time to bother balancing them.  I've never bothered balancing my rear wheels/tyres and never had a problem either.

One tip that might still be useful: truck places used to balance the wheels and tyres on the vehicle, partly because they are too big and heavy to put on a normal wheel balancing machine, and also because the rotating mass of the drum or disc could be a major component of the out of balance. Balancing them on the vehicle, balances the whole of the rotating mass, but you must mark the wheel to the hub so that its always fitted in the same place to retain that balance.  I always used to balance my Murena front wheels on our truck on-vehicle balancing machine myself when I worked at Mercedes and it was easy, quick and spot-on.  Like Peter says though, if I had to take mine elsewhere there are lots of places near me that can do these wheels with no hole in the centre and I'm amazed no one near you can do them.

One more thing concerning wheels and balancing: New tyres usually have a red spot one of the sidewalls and sometimes a yellow spot too.  If it has a red spot, the tyre should be fitted on the rim such that the red spot is next to the tyre valve.  Basically the red spot is the thickest point of the tyre so placing it next to the valve where the wheel is compromised by the hole for the valve places it where it will help.  However, I have heard that this is to do with the runout of the tyre i.e. slight ovality but either way, the red should be next to the tyre valve.  The yellow spot is where the tyre is lightest and the valve is where the wheel might be a fraction heavier, so if there is only a yellow spot that should be by the valve which will help initial balance. If it has both spots ignore the yellow spot, as the red always take precedent.  These days I have found some tyre fitters don't understand what these signify and fit them anywhere!

Roy

 3 
 on: November 27, 2020, 05:12:18 pm 
Started by Matraman - Last post by suffolkpete
Have you tried e-tyres?  You may or may not be lucky as I think they are franchisees, my local man had the kit to do it but he's quit.  I find it surprising that Peugeot/Citroen dealers have not got the adapter as current models have solid centre wheels, our 2013 C3 does, as have all bar one of the nine Peugeots Citroens and Renaults that my family has owned over the years.

 4 
 on: November 27, 2020, 01:29:19 pm 
Started by Matraman - Last post by Matraman
That gives me hope! I'm pursuing Citroen Saxo / 90s Peugeot people at the moment, but most of them seem to have thrown away the adapters for these types of wheels now. There's one potential place near me but the guy I spoke to managed to put me off going near them; the whole job sounded like a PITA to him. I've also looked at balancing them on the car and my nearest place for that seems to be Bicester, which is a long way from here in a car with unbalanced wheels! Longstone Tyres at Bawtry might be able to do them off the car, which is quite a way to go if it turns out they can't do them, but at least I could take them off the car and take them over there in another car.

I like a challenge, so I'll keep searching.

 5 
 on: November 27, 2020, 11:17:27 am 
Started by Matraman - Last post by suffolkpete
I find that surprising, I can think of at least three suppliers who can do it within 20 miles of my home in rural East Suffolk.  All it requires is an adapter for the standard balancing machine.  Surely there must be someone in Greater Manchester.

 6 
 on: November 27, 2020, 11:11:30 am 
Started by Matraman - Last post by Matraman
Now that I'm 350 miles into running in my restored 2.2 I'm venturing onto motorways and finding out that the wheels have never been balanced since being refurbished by the previous owner. There are no weights on them at all, so once I reach 60 things start wobbling.

After several attempts locally in Manchester I can't find anyone who can balance the thick alloy solid centre wheels. Can anyone give me any help on how to find somewhere in the UK which can do these 1980's wheels? Meanwhile I'll have a look for classic tyre suppliers to see if they can help. ATS can do solid centre wheels but their machine can't cope with the thickness of the Murena wheels apparently.

 7 
 on: November 25, 2020, 05:41:35 pm 
Started by Joe Webb - Last post by Matraman
After removing the instrument panel and air vent (it needed reconnecting to the air supply pipe anyway) I found the bulb and holder perched on a little ledge at the top back left corner behind the dash.
The reason the bulb wasn't lighting up was a bit of the copper at the end of the tab which connects to the bulb holder had come off. The plastic layer was still there. I got a few thin strands of copper wire and attached them to the bulb holder connection on one side, so that they could connect to the remaining bit of copper on the circuit board when the bulb holder was pushed all the way in. It seems to work fine now.

 8 
 on: November 24, 2020, 11:52:12 am 
Started by Joe Webb - Last post by Matraman
Thanks Roy. It's the left side of the rev counter which isn't illuminated. I saw the unused holes, they both had tape over them. I replaced the bulb with the instrument panel out and it was working on the bench, but back in the car it wasn't coming on. So I removed it with the instrument panel in situ and of course it pinged off somewhere and is hiding behind there. I was hoping not to remove and replace the delicate instrument panel and vulnerable aluminium facia more times than necessary, so I though I should be able to get a new bulb holder for a couple of quid!

Looks like I'll have to get the instrument panel out again for a better look. I've tried driving along a bumpy road to shake the bulb holder out, but no luck!

My car has a choke warning light and no vacuum sensor.

 9 
 on: November 23, 2020, 01:52:16 pm 
Started by roy4matra - Last post by roy4matra
In case you have not visited my website and FAQ pages for some time, I have now added another couple of pages regarding the Espace III, mainly to warn prospective owners of the fact that some necessary items are no longer available anywhere, and if one of these fails you could have a vehicle you can't repair.  Well you might be able to repair it if you design and make something yourself, but you won't be able to simply buy a manufacturer spare!

Roy

 10 
 on: November 23, 2020, 01:39:11 pm 
Started by Joe Webb - Last post by roy4matra
Did you ever find any bulb holders for the 286 warning / dash illumination lights?

I've never seen those push in bulb holders anywhere and I can't even find a make or part number for them, and I've been in the trade for a longtime! Smiley

However, those push in bulb holders on the back of the instrument panel are very rarely ever damaged or broken, in fact I can't ever remember having to replace one, so that only leaves you needing one if they have been lost.

First please note that the back of the Murena instrument panel has more holes than warning or illumination bulbs so there will be some empty places, and that is correct.  From memory there are two illumination positions never used, one on the extreme left and another on the extreme right, and depending on the age of the car there may be one missing on the bottom row of seven warning lights.  This is because on early cars they had a warning symbol for no vacuum in the head lamp raise and lower system, but in later cars the symbol changed and that became the choke warning light.  The vacuum warning required a sensor which was never fitted on any Murena as far as I am aware so the warning light was never used.  It was a 'left over' feature from the Bagheera.  I've seen the vacuum sensor on a Bagheera so I know what it looked like and where it was fitted.  Has anyone with a very early Murena ever seen that sensor fitted and working?  With the large numbers of Murena with leaking head light vacuum systems, if they had ever worked the warning lights would have been on and seen quite a lot! Smiley

As for those push in bulb holders on the back of the instrument panel, that take a 286 capless bulb, I have a spare or two, if someone is desperate for a replacement.  However, if a holder is there and the bulb does not work and it has been checked so you know the bulb is good, have you checked the copper contact from the circuit membrane as sometimes these end copper contacts have broken off, or they have got tucked back under the membrane when they should be over the edge of the plastic housing.  The push in bulb holder must make positive contact with the copper end from the membrane and if it is broken off or tucked back under it will not make contact, so there is no point replacing the holder, as that is not at fault.

Roy

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10