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 1 
 on: March 19, 2017, 03:47:16 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Thanks Guys..... I understand! photo of bubble flare fitted to old pipe.... I have discovered that if I create a double flare then remove the pipe and place it in the tool the other way up it creates a bubble flare..... now that is sorted I just have to "re-do" the pipes I had already made!!!!!! better safe than to find out I have no brakes lol.

 2 
 on: March 16, 2017, 03:13:46 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by roy4matra
Good evening all,
Need a little advice! last year I replaced most of the brake lines on EOW 1W and on checking the pipes were bubble flared, however today I was replacing the front left and upon removal I noted that this was double flared!!!! I am assuming that bubble replaced double in the mid 80's and the male nut appears with a recess to accept a double whereas the new nuts look flat so to accept a bubble flare (hope your all following this because I am now lost) What I need to know is obviously because of the nuts a bubble flare is the way to go, but is it in any way compromising the seal of the pipes?

Terry

Terry, as Peter has said, you need to check the surface inside any connection that a brake pipe is mating with.  It will either be convex or concave and the flared end of the pipe has to match it.  So if a union has a concave or dished-in surface where the end of the pipe seals then the end of the pipe needs a convex flare (what you are calling a 'bubble' I think).  A convex surface will need a concave flare end (what you are calling a 'double').  Most pipe end flaring tools create a convex first and then 'squash' that to create the concave end shape on a second operation (giving you that double material thickness).

Usually unions, cylinders or calipers will have a concave shape and need a convex pipe flare.  The most common need for a concave pipe flare is when it connects to a flexible hose which usually has a convex end shape.

There is a third flat end but that is more rare and certainly not used on the Murena to my knowledge.

Roy

 3 
 on: March 07, 2017, 10:47:56 am 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by suffolkpete
Sounds very odd to me.  Look inside the threaded bit to see whether it's concave or convex at the end.

 4 
 on: March 06, 2017, 07:03:58 pm 
Started by TELBOY - Last post by TELBOY
Good evening all,
Need a little advice! last year I replaced most of the brake lines on EOW 1W and on checking the pipes were bubble flared, however today I was replacing the front left and upon removal I noted that this was double flared!!!! I am assuming that bubble replaced double in the mid 80's and the male nut appears with a recess to accept a double whereas the new nuts look flat so to accept a bubble flare (hope your all following this because I am now lost) What I need to know is obviously because of the nuts a bubble flare is the way to go, but is it in any way compromising the seal of the pipes?

Terry

 5 
 on: March 01, 2017, 05:40:00 pm 
Started by hru - Last post by hoffmann
Den ser da kniv skarp ud ! Har du billeder af den røde stue ?

 6 
 on: February 25, 2017, 10:46:40 am 
Started by Franglaisman - Last post by Franglaisman
Brmm Brmm... Smiley

Very cool.  Smiley

 7 
 on: February 23, 2017, 11:58:21 am 
Started by Franglaisman - Last post by GP
Brmm Brmm... Smiley

 8 
 on: February 20, 2017, 05:47:27 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt
I did forget something. Grin
I had planned to switch to Evans waterless cooling instead of water.
So I include 10 liters of Evans prepfluid and 12 liters of Evans waterless coolant.
I also include a complete set of new steering bolt joints (upper and lower, for both sides)
I can also include a set of side-mirrors that have the same shape as the originals, but with a different adjustment mechanism. Some modification to the triangular mirror mount in the door must be made, but others in the forum have done the job, so it can be done.

 9 
 on: February 20, 2017, 12:43:27 pm 
Started by renaultsan - Last post by renaultsan
Has anybody out there got a fusebox for our 1990 Espace, it is under the dash and accessed by dropping thecover above the footwell.

 10 
 on: February 18, 2017, 01:34:11 pm 
Started by Jon Weywadt - Last post by Jon Weywadt
Hi All you Murena fans.

The time has come where I must throw in the towel.
Due to arthritis in my hands I can no longer do the necessary work and the project is therefore no longer fun. So the car must go and stop reminding me of what I cannot do Sad.

It is a 1981 2.2 with a Holbay 58C cam, so lots of power. I have not gotten it tuned propperly, so you could possibly get more out of it. (original cam is included)
The car was originally Hudson Green with golden velour interior. The previous owner resprayed it in a darker metallic green. It could do with a respray.
It has a valid Danish MOT and just turned “antique” so the next MOT is when it turns 40 and then every 8 years after that.
The car drives fine though it needs the 2. gear synchro sorted. (I have the gear wheel and synchro ring, but can’t do the work)
I have done a lot of work on it, but it still needs work several places to be like new.

The front bumper was cracked and I have repaired it with fiber glass. It is painted black at the moment.
I have installed LED driving lights that come on when ignition is on.
Frog-lights aligned with new stainless (home-made) shims and bolts.
The head was refurbished last year and the Holbay 58C cam fitted.
It has all stainless steel cooling and heater pipes, including in the engine compartment.
The header tank is replaced by a custom built aluminium tank.
The water pump is 'new' (new shaft, bearings and seals, thanks to the help of Jesper)
The fuel pump is replaced by an electric pump, which speeds up starting.
The muffler is a dual-exhaust stainless steel type. The manifold is the “banana” type.
The rear brake calipers were refurbished by Roy and have not seen much wear since.
The hand brake cable has been replaced by a stainless steel aircraft type.
Metal plates around and under the radiator has been replaced by stainless steel.
Rod and fittings holding the bonnet are made in stainless steel.
The fuse box bracket and lid are stainless steel.
Whatever I worked on, the screws, bolts and nuts were replaced with stainless steel kind.
Instrument panel gauges have been fixed and the clock replaced.
A fixed-speed heater fan has replaced the old one that burned out. I have an electronic speed control and potentiometer that will replace the old fan switch for speed adjustment.
The front compartment fiberglass insert has been fastened with pop-nuts and stainless screws for easy removal.

Mechanical work that should be done (parts included):
Replace 2nd. gear and synchro (the replacement parts are included) (also new high 5th. gear)
Possibly convert to fuel injection. (injection manifold with injectors, air-flow and other parts included. Also a brand new Mega-Squirt injection control unit and a fast acting Lambda probe are included)
A complete set of new door seals, including the brown velvet inner seals, are included.
New rear view mirror included.
New window slide guides are included.
New rubber moulding for top of bumper is included with mounting tape (professional type)
New modern fuse box included ready to be installed. Fits the original bracket.
White Murena decals are included.

The following is also included:
An extra set of seats.
Original brown steering wheel. (in good condition)
A Ferrari style rear hatch to replace the rear window. Includes side window grills and gas dampers.
Brand new “S-style” side skirts.

I probably forgot something, but contact me if you have questions.

Check these posts to get an idea of what has already been sorted:
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1407.0.html
and here:
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1504.0.html
and here:
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,1358.0.html
and most definitely here:
http://www.matrasport.dk/forum/index.php/topic,2783.0.html

I am asking 60.000 Danish kroner for the lot. Let me know if you are interested, or want to leave a bid.

Best regards. Jon.

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