Hello Anders
The lock cylinder in my Espace 1997 was defective.
My neighbor (spare part manager at Renault dealer) ordered a new lock cylinder in France, which fitted the ignition key. (the seemed price about 600, - kr)
The remote control in the ignition key for my Espace 2001 did not work after I changed the rubber switch. It is difficult to unlock when the remote control does not work, so I sent the key to BMN ELECTRONICS in Næstved which "fixed" it for 300, - kr.
The remote control worked when I got it back, but after approx. 14 days it didn't work again. Back to BMN, who tested the remote that said it is ok, but it has to be re-encoded to the car.
How to Make an Espace
(my Peugeot 607 had the same problem, but it is described in the instruction book how the remote control is re-encoded with the car)
mvh Ernst

Good to see you here, Jose. Sad that you're selleing yours. 140 tkm is nothing. Our 2001 has clocked 360 now. Yours probably look a lot better than ours does now.

I replaced my pump myself in 2011 and it's still running fine (fingers crossed). The difficult part is removing the filler pipe, lowering the tank without spilling petrol on the ground as even a little petrol in the tank will overflow from the filler connection when you bump it around, and getting it back up and fitted.

But it worked out fine

Hi all,

I have finally decided to sell my beloved Espace. It is a 1999 3.0 24V model, with just about 140.000km on it, and currently does not run due to a faulty fuel pump. It has developed, for second time on its life, a breakage on the return line connection on the pump, so it got a large enough leak to prevent the vehicle from being driven (as it would not arrive far!). I have it this way for a year and even bought a new pump, but I have not way to replace it by myself and, well, it is time to let it go 

I am in Spain. If anyone want it, please, hurry. I would sell it for just 500€ and even would give the new owner the new in box Bosch fuel pump (about 190€ value). It is a pity to throw away this nice vehicle.

Jose

Hello Roy - Thanks for your reply to my brief post. I'm very sorry I've taken time to reply back!


Well, it was a couple of years ago now. One failed first, then the other one about 6-12 months later. The symptom was in both cases the same: The signal level dropped and couldn't be measured, like it was running on a very worn-out battery. Replacement didn't help. After both had failed, I sent the pcbs for repair to a German shop that claimed they could fix them - unfortunately they couldn't and I didn't get them back.

(The imobilizer coil with its chip is still in the key.)

So we have lived with locking the car using the button at the roof console and using the doorlock.


My garage used a measurement tool they had to determine that the signal level from the keys was too low for the key to function, so no.


I actually didn't know that there was a method for resynchronizing keys. Will it be possible to buy new remotes and connect them? My garage found it was very expensive.

I've now fitted a new door lock, so at least that's settled

No, you should leave the radiator bleed hose at the bottom of the header tank where it is under the coolant level.  If the fluid level dropped owing to a leak you want the radiator to remain free of air, so having it under the fluid level at the header tank would do this, until the tank was completely empty.  If it was connected at the top where there is always air, it could get air back into the top of the radiator as the level dropped.

The extra height of the connection at the bottom of the coolant tank compared to the top of the radiator will always allow a small flow of any air bubbles that appear at the top of the radiator to vent back to the header tank.  Don't forget all this system is under pressure at normal running.

If you were going to use a tee-piece for the two to the upper connection, what were you going to do with the bottom connection?  Just cap it off?  Why?  It is better to leave the hoses connected the way they have always been, as Herman says, which we know works fine.

Roy

Hello Anders, was it definitely faults with both keys?  That seems like high odds to both fail at the same time.  It suggests to me is was more like part of the system failed, which would mean both keys would fail to work at the same time.  I assume you have tried re-synchronising the keys yourself?  Since you had both keys working the immobiliser is set for two keys, so you have to resync. both keys one after the other in the same 'time window'.  You can't do one only because it will be looking for two keys.

Roy

Thats right .
A pregnant wife to show that it is easy. Great idea.

I am replacing my header tank with an aluminium one, that only has a connection at the bottom, and one at the top , above coolant level. (And one for overflow at the cap).
From what I hane read here it seems that it would be ok to simply connect both the radiator venting line and the one from the thermostat ,to the upper one by means of a t-piece ?

Interessant ombygning. Har du nogle billeder og informationer, du kan/vil dele med os?
Hans

The door remotes stopped working a while ago: Both keys failed at the same time. Unfortunately they coulnd't be repaired or replaced, so for a couple of years we've used the door lock to open and lock the car. Unfortunately it failed a couple of weeks ago. Today I got the lock cylinder out (a little inspection camera came in handy).

There's a piece broken off in the lock cylinder which should have driven a little mechanism which in turn drives the arm and the linkage to the door lock itself.

I've found a replacement lock cylinder on eBay with a new set of keys and will be installing a new remote which I plan to drive the wires on button on the roof console.