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Author Topic: murena restore  (Read 147660 times)
klumzer
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« Reply #135 on: August 26, 2012, 10:06:13 pm »

Thanks for the link.

I found another rubber company not far from here, first I will try to contact them next week.

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klumzer
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« Reply #136 on: August 27, 2012, 06:43:21 pm »

Is it possible to find more information about the optional body stickers for Murena? Colors, motives and so on...

Once I saw a 2.2 with stripes on the bonnet. It looked good and now I am thinking of installing a similar one after painting the car.
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klumzer
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« Reply #137 on: August 29, 2012, 09:42:38 pm »

Today we installed the new thermostat with lower opening temperature (81C), it works perfectly.
Part number: QTH165 or QTH165K(with gaskets).

But I found another problem. I have a common collector pipe instead of the original exhaust collector and pipe, but it is too close to the body (less than 6mm). When the engine is running the front of the boot become quite hot - very hot.
As it is not possible to adjust the gap between the pipes and the chassis, I think it would be better to have the original parts.
If anyone has an exhaust collector (05011) and a pipe (05015) for sale, please send me a PM. Thanks.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #138 on: August 30, 2012, 06:19:36 am »

But I found another problem. I have a common collector pipe instead of the original exhaust collector and pipe, but it is too close to the body (less than 6mm). When the engine is running the front of the boot become quite hot - very hot.

Could you post a photo of it? The boot in the Murena is a hot place, but the airflow through the engine bay and between the heat shield and the boot itself should be able to keep the temperature stable. I wouldn't worry too much about this.

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
Jon Weywadt
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« Reply #139 on: August 30, 2012, 08:07:52 am »

Today we installed the new thermostat with lower opening temperature (81C), it works perfectly.
Part number: QTH165 or QTH165K(with gaskets).

But I found another problem. I have a common collector pipe instead of the original exhaust collector and pipe, but it is too close to the body (less than 6mm). When the engine is running the front of the boot become quite hot - very hot.
As it is not possible to adjust the gap between the pipes and the chassis, I think it would be better to have the original parts.
If anyone has an exhaust collector (05011) and a pipe (05015) for sale, please send me a PM. Thanks.

One solution could be to wrap the pipe in heat insulating tape.

http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=15726941

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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #140 on: August 30, 2012, 09:13:15 am »

One solution could be to wrap the pipe in heat insulating tape.

I wouldn't recommend that since insulating the pipes mean more residual heat in the exhaust (slightly) increasing the chances of damaging the cylinder head.

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
klumzer
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« Reply #141 on: August 30, 2012, 07:11:51 pm »

Here are some photos. Unfortunately I could not take better photos. The gap is about 3-4mm between the pipes and the chassis. If I wrapped it with heat insulating tape, it may touch the chassis...
When I checked it the engine was running at idle up to the operation of the heater fan so there was no airflow at the heatshield.
The front of the boot was very hot at that point about 70-80C. I worry about it...
« Last Edit: August 30, 2012, 07:15:59 pm by klumzer » Logged
Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #142 on: August 30, 2012, 09:44:23 pm »

Your photos are good, and there obviously very little space there. I'd be more worried about the exhaust banging the heat shield. Unless you're going to store food in the trunk, really don't see the problem. Further, while the car should of course be able to withstand idling for as long time as you wish, it is not a normal mode of operation, and as soon as you get moving, the air will start flowing over the engine and out of the ventilation holes under the trunk. This will cool off the engine as well as the trun very effectively.

I think you will regret converting back to the standard exhaust, and I don't think it will change much temperature wise. But since, I only have experience with a 4-in-1 manifold like yours, I can't say for sure. Can someone else comment on this?

We're having our annual Matra meeting here in Denmark this weekend, so I'll see if I can get a few photos of similar installations and ask others about their experiences.

/Anders
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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
klumzer
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« Reply #143 on: August 30, 2012, 10:09:55 pm »

Unless you're going to store food in the trunk, really don't see the problem.

It depends on the food. I can roast or bake in the trunk, so no problem... Smiley

I have new upper engine bushes so the engine does not move.
How much is the gap in your car?

Thank you for your research in advance.

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Matra_Hans
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« Reply #144 on: August 31, 2012, 07:41:06 pm »

The original exhaust manifold/ exhaust collector is made of cast iron, and it will usually develop cracks after some time of operation.
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klumzer
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« Reply #145 on: August 31, 2012, 09:05:41 pm »

So it is not easy to find one in good condition. Thank you for the info.
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Anders Dinsen
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« Reply #146 on: September 03, 2012, 06:29:48 pm »

I managed to take a photo of my exhaust seen from below. As you can see my car also has just a small gap between the pipes and the chassis. I have never had any problems though. During acceleration, the engine will twist to counter the rear wheel torque, and this will increase the gap slightly. So I wouldn't worry about your clearance.

The temperature in the boot seems a little high, though. I've been thinking about that. How did you measure it? Was the car idling or driving?

After 50 km driving on motorway (i.e. plenty of airflow), my boot is warm, but certainly not more than 35 degrees. Have you checked your ignition timing? The exhaust gasses will be hotter with retarded ignition. This is because with advanced ignition there's more energy transmitted into the conrods and this, according to the principles of thermodynamics, cools off the gasses in the cylinder. So, if you're running with the ignition at 5 degrees or less, that could be your problem. Mine is advanced almost to 15 degrees (set up professionally on a rolling road and always only fuelled with RON 97 or higher).

/Anders

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1982 Talbot Matra Murena 2.2 prep 142
2001 Renault Matra Grand Espace "The Race" V6 24v
2017 BMW i3 "Charged Professional" 94Ah
klumzer
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Posts: 370



« Reply #147 on: September 03, 2012, 06:50:28 pm »

Thanks for the photo.

The car was idling, no airflow, and more than 30C ambient temperature. I did not measure the temperature, only felt it by touching the plate, estimated value. It was quite hot at a small area. The carpet is removed from the boot now so the bare metal could be felt hotter than fabric would have been. I am thinking of using some heat insulation foil under the new carpet to protect it.

I will check the ignition timing, it is a good tip.
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klumzer
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« Reply #148 on: September 05, 2012, 07:23:10 pm »

I revived my side mirrors, only the installation of the mirrorglasses was left. Today I wanted to fit them, but the left one did not succeed.
Now I think that I have two glasses for the right side, because they look the same, and both were perfect in the right shell. I do not know how, but one of them was in the left sidemirror when I bought the car and I did not recognise it when I disassembled the mirrors...

Once Roy wrote that the mirror glasses are different but in Simon's catalog only one part number is listed for both sides. Which is the right information?
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klumzer
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« Reply #149 on: September 09, 2012, 05:31:40 pm »

Are there any other cars whiches use the same or similar mounting rubber for the exhaust?
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