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 on: September 22, 2017, 11:48:53 pm 
Started by perry - Last post by jlg

I replaced the sump gasket on my 2.2 recently. I proceeded as follows:
- drain the oil
- remove the oil level sensor (on the front side of the sump). It will be damaged if not removed and replacement ones are very difficult to find.
- suspend the engine using a strong square section tube put across the engine bay and attached to the lifting bracket mounted on the cylinder head (near thermostat)
- remove the 2 special screws holding the bearing of the long driveshaft
- remove and suspend the brake calliper
- Remove the bolts holding the trailing arm (2 bolts at the front, one on the shock absorber, one on the antiroll bar)
- remove trailing arm with driveshaft still attached to the hub (saves a hub nut)
- lift the engine to be able to remove the lower right engine mount bolt (note the position of the spacers)
- remove he numerous screws fastening the sump (watch for the varying length and the 2 hidden ones behind the flywheel)
- curse while trying to get the sump off

I have not done the timing case but it may be a bit of a nightmare as there is not much space between it and the chassis member. You will have to drain the cooling fluid, maybe remove the water pump (lack of clearance) which means lower the gearbox engine mout. Remember to latch the chain tensioner and be careful with the position of the distributor's gear in the top half of the timing case. Also note that if you have a leak between the 2 halves of the timing case, the seal for this is part of the cylinder head gasket!

Best of luck,

 on: September 21, 2017, 04:06:39 pm 
Started by SellingMatra - Last post by SellingMatra
somebody can help me to understand where this connector rear at alternator will be connected ?
From alternator to ...... ??  Huh

Many thanks in advance

 on: September 18, 2017, 09:16:20 pm 
Started by JL - Last post by MatraIan
The 2.2 dics are still available from Simon I have just had two. Matra magic also list them at 140.40 inc Vat Each
Simons website has no price on the website so you will have message them to check latest cost. I got them for less than 140 each but had a job lot if items through Roy at Redwood RS.

 on: September 18, 2017, 05:57:12 pm 
Started by JL - Last post by suffolkpete
The rear discs are unique to the 2.2, but they should still be obtainable from Simon Auto, albeit at a price.  Do not use 1.6 discs as they are of a smaller diameter and the pads will overhang the edge.

 on: September 18, 2017, 04:43:22 pm 
Started by Gib - Last post by Gib

NCTS - Seems a good price considering they are with rings and +0.4 at rare in the UK don't know what there availability is on the mainland?

 on: September 18, 2017, 03:50:46 pm 
Started by JL - Last post by perry
I need to replace my rear discs on my 2.2 which rotors are compatible, any help please?

 on: September 18, 2017, 03:48:01 pm 
Started by variator - Last post by perry
How are the driveshafts removed from a 2.2?

 on: September 18, 2017, 03:39:10 pm 
Started by perry - Last post by perry
Do the drive shafts need to be removed at all?

 on: September 17, 2017, 02:34:32 pm 
Started by perry - Last post by Jon Weywadt
Thanks, so how easy is it to remove the motor bearing in mind it will be done at home without a manual?

It is not too difficult to remove the left engine support bolt. Remember to first remove the horizontal bolt in the upper, rear engine mount next to the mechanical fuel pump.
You need to support the left side of the engine with a floor jack or such. Lift slightly to take the weight off the left engine mount so the bolt does not carry the weight. Then it should be easy to punch it out.

 on: September 16, 2017, 05:55:33 pm 
Started by Lennart Sorth - Last post by Lennart Sorth
Update ...

as so often with an old car, I *thought* I had found the reason for unstable ignition, but Roy
pointed out that there shouldn't be any direct link between the 6-pin connectors and ignition,
- even if there is a fat 12V supply (which was very corroded).
Roy instead pointed me at the ignition lock, and as always I believe he was right - once I got
the thing out of the car I could first of all see that one of the leads coming off the lock was
scorched and when started to attempt to measure its workings, that wire simply came completely
loose and fell out of the connector.

And this was indeed the ignition wire !  

The other is for cranking, and that seems to work just fine.

I have already treated the otherwise very tired and corroded looking wire with wonders of a
saturated salt solution in vinegar, - and the de-oxidising process stopped with a rinse in a
baking-powder solution, hence it looks fairly clean on the picture below.

My next challenge is to figure out how this connector on the ignition lock comes off, so I can
redo it.  


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